How to Spend a Long Weekend in Monsanto Village in Portugal
With Europe just a short flight from the UK, city breaks or long weekend trips have become the new norm for travellers seeking a quick culture fix. However, cities can get packed with people and become very expensive. So, why not ditch your next city break in Europe and head somewhere that is not only beautiful but defies logic? Deep in central-eastern Portugal, in the tranquil Beira Baixa countryside, there is a “rock village” known as Portugal’s “most Portuguese village”. The village lies quietly in the Beira Baixa valley, underpinned by enormous boulders and tall mountains. Its name? Monsanto, or Mons Sanctus (Holy Mount), and the Monsanto Village in Portugal is 758 metres above sea level and has only 800 residents.
How to Get to Monsanto Village in Portugal?
There are direct flights from almost all UK airports to Porto Airport or Lisbon Airport. The flight duration is a little over two hours. I flew from Bristol, and you can use Skyscanner to find the best deals.
From either Portuguese airport, hire a private transfer or pick up a Europcar and drive around three hours to Monsanto Village.
Where to Stay in Monsanto Village?
You can book a standard twin room at Taverna Lusitana for £80 per night during your weekend in Monsanto Village in Portugal. This guest house near Monsanto Castle has a snack bar, terrace, and shared lounge. Or rent the Old House, a charming two-bedroom guest house with lake and city views, an outdoor dining area and a cosy fireplace for cooler nights. You can rent the entire house for £107 per night.
Also read: How to Spend a 3-day Weekend in Porto, Portugal.
HOW TO SPEND A WEEKEND IN MONSANTO VILLAGE IN PORTUGAL
Day 1 (Friday) – Travel to Monsanto Village
After landing at Porto or Lisbon Airport, drive to Monsanto through the Beira Baixa Valley. Along the way, you’ll discover a countryside dotted with small villages, sheep-covered fields and more terracotta roofs than you can count. Eventually, you’ll arrive at Relva, where Meditteranean trees mushroom and daring dogs walk across roads like they own the place.
Continue driving up R. da Estrada, and as the road gets steeper and coils around bends, you’ll arrive at Monsanto Village. You’ll know when you’ve arrived; on your left, you’ll find a church-like bus stop, and on your right will be two enormous boulders leaning over a picnic bench (pictured below).
Baluarte Viewpoint
Continue up the hill until you get to a viewing platform, where you’ll see a sign for parking. This is Baluarte Viewpoint, where three large cannons have protected the town for 300 years. Monsanto is the ‘most Portuguese village’ – awarded in 1938 by the Estado Novo regime to romanticise and preserve village and agricultural life – and it is one of the 12 Historical Villages of Portugal. Above the Torre de Luciano, you’ll notice a silver rooster; this is Portugal’s symbol for good luck (pictured on the left).
While standing on the Baluarte Viewpoint, download this self-guided audio tour, Discovering the Historical Town of Monsanto, to learn about the village’s history. Monsanto Village’s tale is one of defiance against invaders, like the Romans and Arabs, and later, they had protection from the Order of the Knights Templar. The order’s Grand Master, Gualdim Pais, built the castle, now standing as sentry over the town. He built the castle after the 12th-century King Afonso Henriques conquered the land. This formidable structure is so fantasy-esque that it’s now starring as the Targaryen’s ancestral home, Dragonstone, in the hit TV series House of the Dragon.
From Baluarte Viewpoint, pop into Cafe O Baluarte for a refreshing ice cream and drink, and then find your accommodation, where you’ll check in and unpack. As you walk towards your accommodation, you’ll soon notice that the village of Monsanto has unusual housing. Here, traditional terracotta roofs are partially replaced by massive granite boulders weighing up to 200 tonnes. These boulders are referred to by locals as “barrocais”, while the streets resemble rabbit warrens, going past, through, and under the rocks.
Explore Monsanto Village’s Streets
Once you’ve settled in, begin your weekend in Monsanto Village in Portugal by exploring the higgledy-piggledy, cobbled streets. These narrow roads are lined with stone cottages, potted plants, and cacti. Despite being only 25km away from the Spanish Border, everything in Monsanto is inherently Portuguese, from its classic architecture to regional cuisine, crafts, and festivities tethered to local legends. Even its people seem moulded from the land. I saw elderly women dressed in floral pinafores, diligently tending to plants, and rapidly speaking Portuguese in a conversation I imagined was about the best way to grow their greenery. As you continue, the streets become like a living museum. Each property narrates a significant part of Monsanto’s past.
The House of Fernando Namora
The House of Fernando Namora declares that a prominent Portuguese doctor and writer once lived in the village (pictured on the left below). The house was built in 1931, and the writer worked as a doctor in Monsanto from October 1944 to October 1946. Fernando Namora was partly inspired by hard rural life, and there is a plaque on the house quoting his work A Nave de Pedra: “My last books and in their final form were written in the village.”
On Rua de Santo António, you’ll find an engraving of crossbones, a skull, and the Latin inscription Cogita Mortem (Think about Death). This is Monsanto’s executioner’s house.
If you’d like to find more of these historic buildings, there are several signposts in Monsanto Village to help you on your way.
End the First Day with a Romantic Dinner
There’s no better way to end your first day in Monsanto Village in Portugal than at Taverna Lusitana. You’ll smell the sweet and rich aroma of freshly baked pastries before you reach Taverna Lusitana, a twee snack bar which serves a creative, cherry-flavoured tart. But you’ll quickly learn that Taverna’s regional cheese, chorizo, and Lvsitana beer appeal to guests and locals alike. You can enjoy watching the sunset at the Taverna’s rooftop terrace or dine by candlelight, looking out over the valley and town below.
Day 2 (Saturday) – Explore Monsanto Village’s Castle & Hills
Monsanto Village Hikes
There are many excellent hiking trails around the village of Monsanto. I recommend a 4.5-kilometre trail that leads away from the town and circuits high on the hill. Along the walk, you’ll discover many lofty boulders and breathtaking views as far as Spain.
Monsanto Castle
One of the best things to do in Portugal is to visit Monsanto Castle, an incredible fortress at the highest point above the village. It’s a steep but short hike along an ancient medieval road to Monsanto Castle, but it’s worth it as the views are outstanding. Along the way, you’ll come across a stone wall that was once a part of a complex fortified system which protected the castle. Make sure to stand on the castle ramparts, looking down on a village that has remained unchanged for centuries. These walls are made from local granite and would have connected five towers. Only one is still standing—Torre do Piāo —but there are the ruins of the Chapel of Sāo Miguel to see. For centuries, this was the Parish Church of the Upper Town of Monsanto, and one of the best bits to see is its Romanesque arched doorway.
End Day Two with a Homemade Dinner
If you have rented an apartment or villa, spend the second evening of your weekend in Monsanto Village making a home-cooked dinner. You can buy ingredients at one of the local shops.
Day 3 (Sunday) – Wave Goodbye To Monsanto Village
Spend the Morning Browsing the Shops
Before leaving Monsanto Village, spend some time exploring the many quaint shops. One of my favourites is the Rua Marquês da Graciosa’s Artesanato craft store, which displays locally made Maradona. These are dolls wrapped in traditional Portuguese costumes with no mouths, ears, or eyes. As the shopkeeper told me, they act as a fertility symbol, traditionally given to newlyweds on their wedding night. During May’s Festa da Divina Santa Cruz de Monsanto, local women bring these dolls, clay pots and adufe (an ancient musical instrument) to the castle, dancing and praying for fertility. While I saw no festivities, two women worked hard to bring the marafona to life.
final thoughts on spending a long weekend in Monsanto Village
There you have it, my travel guide to spending a weekend in Monsanto! I hope this blog has inspired you to visit Monsanto. As you can see, the village has everything you need: culture, history, excellent food, and plenty of hiking trails if you feel like being at one with nature.
Have you been to Monsanto? If so, what’s your favourite thing to do there?
If you’re heading to Monsanto, check out my other guides for Portugal, which might inspire you to extend your stay and discover this diverse and breathtaking country. The Ultimate 9 Best Places to Visit in Portugal & 10 Day Portugal Itinerary: Tracing Traditions.
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